Azelaic Acid for Redness and Acne: What Works, and What Korean Serums Contain

Azelaic acid is one of the best-studied ingredients in this whole series: it reduces rosacea bumps and redness [1][2] and works for acne [3][4]. But those results come from 15–20% azelaic acid. Many Korean products contain a derivative or a lower amount, which the trials did not test.

Azelaic Acid is the ingredient the trials used. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a water-soluble derivative often used in Korean formulas; we found no clinical trials for it. A product called '10% azelaic' may contain either, so check the ingredient list.

Rosacea. In two large vehicle-controlled trials (329 and 335 people), 15% azelaic acid gel reduced inflamed rosacea bumps by about half, against about 40% with the gel alone, and improved redness [1]. A systematic review of five trials (873 people) found it at least as good as metronidazole — but it did not reduce visible blood vessels [2].

Acne. An abridged Cochrane review of 49 trials found azelaic acid probably slightly less effective than benzoyl peroxide and similar to tretinoin, with mild, short-lived side effects [3]. Older trials found 20% cream better than its base and equal to tretinoin for blackheads and whiteheads, with fewer side effects [4].

Dark patches. A 155-person trial found 20% azelaic acid gave good or excellent melasma results far more often than 2% hydroquinone, though 2% is a weak comparison [5].

Redness-prone and acne-prone skin, and people who cannot use retinoids. Expect some tingling at first [5]. In the UK, 15–20% azelaic acid treatments are prescription or pharmacy products; for persistent rosacea or acne, see your GP or pharmacist.

The products below contain azelaic acid or its derivative — check which before you buy if you want trial-strength results. Prices are compared daily across UK retailers, delivery included.