Green Tea and Ginseng in Korean Skincare: Antioxidant Promise vs Evidence

Green tea applied to skin modestly reduces acne spots [1] and oiliness [3]. For ageing, its one placebo-controlled trial found no visible difference [2]. Ginseng has two tiny trials of specially processed extracts [5][6]. A review of Korean anti-ageing ingredients concluded that high-level evidence is lacking [7].

Green tea: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water or Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG, its main antioxidant). Ginseng: Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Water, or ferments such as Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate. 'Siberian ginseng' and 'Indian ginseng' are different plants.

Green tea and acne. A meta-analysis of five trials (247 people) found topical green tea extract reduced inflamed acne spots, while taking it by mouth did little [1].

Green tea and oil. In 90 people over four weeks, 5% EGCG reduced skin oiliness more than L-carnitine alone [3]; there was no placebo.

Green tea and ageing. In an eight-week placebo-controlled trial with 40 women using a green tea cream plus capsules, there was no visible difference from placebo; changes appeared only under the microscope, and green tea irritated skin more [2]. Lab work suggests green tea antioxidants reduce UV damage [4] — useful, but not a substitute for sunscreen.

Ginseng. In 23 people, an eye cream with enzyme-modified ginseng reduced photodamage scores and roughness compared with placebo [5]. A split-face study of fermented black ginseng cream, also 23 people, reported anti-wrinkle and brightening effects only qualitatively [6].

Green tea suits oily and acne-prone skin. Ginseng products are pleasant, nourishing formulas; buy them for texture rather than proven anti-ageing. Green tea irritated skin more than placebo in one trial [2], so patch-test if you are sensitive.

The products below contain green tea or ginseng and are compared daily across UK retailers, delivery included.