Ingredient Guide

Centella Asiatica in Korean skincare

A tropical herb whose triterpenoid compounds calm inflammation, support barrier repair, and have decades of clinical use in dermatology — long before K-beauty made it a household name.

Also known as: Cica · Centella asiatica extract · Madecassoside · Asiaticoside · Gotu Kola · TECA

Take the Skin Match quiz →See matching products

30-second summary

What it is: A tropical herb (Centella asiatica) whose extract contains four active triterpenoids: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Together these are sometimes labelled TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica).
What it does: Reduces inflammation via NF-κB suppression, accelerates collagen type I and III synthesis through TGF-β/Smad signalling, calms redness within hours of application, and supports the skin barrier over weeks.
Who it's for: Sensitive, reactive, redness-prone or barrier-damaged skin. Also strong post-procedure (laser, microneedling, peels). Genuinely one of the few ingredients with a clinical reputation that predates its K-beauty popularity.
Avoid if: You have a known allergy to the Apiaceae plant family (carrot, celery, parsley). Otherwise very low risk — Centella has one of the cleanest dermatological safety records in cosmetics.
Best concentration: Extract concentration matters less than the standardised triterpenoid content. Look for products listing ≥0.1% madecassoside (the most studied actor) or "5% TECA" — these are the formulations with reproducible clinical data.

The science

What we actually know — and what we don't.

What is centella asiatica, exactly?

Centella asiatica (also called Gotu Kola or pennywort) is a small green herb that grows wild across South Asia and tropical Africa. In traditional Indian and Chinese medicine it was used for wound healing for over two thousand years; in modern Western dermatology it was first standardised as a topical extract in 1949 by a French chemist named Boiteau, who isolated the four active triterpenoids that do most of the skin work. What gets put in a Korean cica cream today is one of three things: (1) a crude water or glycerin extract of the whole plant (cheapest, variable potency), (2) a standardised TECA extract concentrated to a fixed triterpenoid percentage, or (3) a single isolated triterpenoid — most commonly madecassoside, which a number of K-beauty brands now name explicitly on their labels. The naming on bottles is genuinely confusing. "Cica", "Centella asiatica extract", "Centella Asiatica Leaf Water", "Madecassoside" and "TECA" all refer to overlapping but not identical things. The most reliable signal for efficacy is a numeric concentration of madecassoside or TECA on the ingredient list — vague "with centella" claims often correspond to fractional-percent inclusion.

How it works — the four active compounds

Centella's clinical effect comes from four pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins, each contributing slightly different mechanisms: Asiaticoside — the most abundant in the raw plant. Strongest collagen-synthesis promoter of the four; activates the TGF-β/Smad pathway, which tells dermal fibroblasts to produce more collagen types I and III. This is the same pathway retinoids upregulate, just via a different upstream signal. Most studied for wound healing and scar reduction. Madecassoside — the most studied for topical skincare. Suppresses NF-κB-driven inflammation (the master switch for redness, swelling, and itch). A 2024 MDPI review identifies madecassoside as the single most reliable anti-inflammatory in the centella family. This is the molecule that does the heavy lifting in "calming" cica creams. Asiatic acid — the aglycone (sugar-free version) of asiaticoside. Smaller molecule, slightly better at penetrating the stratum corneum, but less stable in formulation. Activates antioxidant pathways via Nrf2. Madecassic acid — the aglycone of madecassoside. Inhibits JAK/STAT3 signalling, which down-regulates several pro-inflammatory cytokines. Synergises with madecassoside in barrier repair formulations. A standardised TECA extract typically contains all four at a fixed ratio (around 40% asiaticoside + 30% madecassoside + 30% combined aglycones). Single-molecule formulations (e.g. "5% madecassoside") give you a sharper, more predictable effect — usually faster redness reduction but slightly less of the collagen-building benefit.

What the studies actually show

Honest summary of the clinical evidence as of mid-2026: Strongly supported: - Reduction of post-procedure erythema. The ECa 233 (a standardised centella gel) study showed erythema after fractional laser resurfacing resolved by day 7 with centella vs day 28 with placebo — a clinically meaningful difference. - Wound healing acceleration. Multiple controlled trials show shorter healing times for burns, surgical wounds, and pressure ulcers with topical centella formulations. - Anti-inflammatory effect on irritated skin within hours to days. Reasonably supported: - Skin barrier recovery in atopic dermatitis (when used adjunct to standard care). - Fine-line reduction over 12+ weeks of consistent use (via the collagen pathway). - Photoaging prevention via Nrf2 antioxidant activation. Not well-supported: - "Reversing" deep wrinkles. - Treating active acne (it calms post-acne redness, doesn't kill the bacteria). - Skin-whitening claims (some marketing makes these — there's no good evidence). The current peer-reviewed consensus (Singh 2024 in Pharmacia, Wang 2024 in Pharmaceutics) is that centella is one of the better-studied cosmetic actives. Effect sizes are real but modest, and consistency of effect depends heavily on whether the formula uses a standardised extract or raw plant material.

In Korean skincare specifically

Why this ingredient is a K-beauty signature, and how the major brands differ.

Why centella became the K-beauty calming ingredient

Korean dermatology has used centella in clinical practice since the 1980s, often for post-laser recovery and acne-prone skin. The leap from clinic to consumer happened around 2010, when a Korean dermatology resident-turned-cosmetics-formulator at the company Madagascar Naturals began standardising centella extract grown specifically in Madagascar (which produces a higher triterpenoid yield than the Korean-grown plant). That extract is the basis for most of today's "Madagascar Centella" branding you see on Korean labels. Two things made centella stick in K-beauty as opposed to Western skincare: first, Korean consumers were already comfortable with multi-step routines that include a dedicated calming step (centella sits naturally in the essence/ampoule slot); second, the rise of "trouble skin" (트러블 피부) as a marketing category created consumer-side demand for ingredients with clinical credibility rather than marketing buzz. Centella delivered both. By 2020 essentially every K-beauty barrier brand had at least one centella product line, and the category continues to grow — the latest 2026 generation focuses on standardised single-triterpenoid formulations rather than crude extracts.

The four cica brands worth knowing in the UK

SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella line — the cica purist. SKIN1004's whole positioning is around standardised Madagascar-grown centella, and they were the first major brand to put explicit triterpenoid percentages on labels. The Probio-Cica Ampoule and Toning Toner are the entry points; the Hyalu-Cica line layers in hyaluronic acid. Reliable, consistent, scientifically transparent. COSRX Centella Blemish Cream / Centella Water Alcohol-Free Toner — value-led, broader formulations. The Blemish Cream pairs centella with salicylic acid for trouble skin; the toner is a gentle daily application. Less standardised than SKIN1004 but available widely in the UK and a third the price. Purito Centella Green Level line — fragrance-free, minimal-additive philosophy. The Centella Green Level Buffet Serum stacks centella with niacinamide and 10 different peptides. A good "stack" choice if you want centella plus other actives in one bottle. Anua Heartleaf series (often pairs heartleaf + centella) — newer-generation, very popular in 2025–26 due to TikTok. The Heartleaf 77 Soothing Toner is the breakout product. Centella is a secondary actor here behind heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata), but the soothing effect is closely related. If you have visibly inflamed skin or are recovering from a procedure, SKIN1004 is the clinical-feeling default. If you want a daily-use cica that fits a beginner routine, COSRX. If you layer with other actives, Purito. If you're chasing the current viral category, Anua.

Who it's good for

Centella is unusual in that it works for both calming inflammation (faster timescale, hours to days) and supporting collagen (longer timescale, weeks to months). That dual action makes it one of the few ingredients almost universally recommended for sensitive skin without compromising on anti-ageing benefit.

Skin types

sensitivereactiverosacea proneoily acnecombinationdrynormalpost procedure

Concerns it addresses

rednessbarrier damagepost acne-rednessrosaceaeczema adjunctphotoagingfine linespost procedure-recovery

Age range: Useful at any age. Particularly high-value in two windows: teens-20s for trouble-prone skin recovery, and 40s+ for combined anti-inflammatory + collagen support.

Who should avoid

Centella has one of the cleanest safety profiles of any cosmetic active. The European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has reviewed it multiple times and consistently finds no significant concern at typical cosmetic concentrations. Pregnancy and breastfeeding use is considered safe (the molecules are too large for meaningful systemic absorption from topical application).

·Known allergy to the Apiaceae plant family (carrot, celery, parsley, fennel, dill)
·Active contact dermatitis flare — patch test first, even though reactions are rare
·Very rare: a small fraction of users report stinging on freshly compromised skin (open wounds, post-extraction)

Layer freely

Same anti-inflammatory family. Stacking is fine but redundant — pick one as your hero calming active and use the other lightly.

Centella Asiatica

From £19.20View

Not sure if centella asiatica is right for your skin?

Take our 2-minute Skin Match quiz. We'll factor in your skin type, concerns, current routine, and what you're already using — and recommend whether this ingredient earns a place in your shelf.

Start the quiz →

Frequently asked

What is the difference between centella and cica?

They refer to the same plant. "Cica" is a short marketing term derived from cicatrisant (French for "scar-healing") that K-beauty brands use to communicate the wound-healing positioning. Look for "Centella asiatica extract" or specific triterpenoid names (madecassoside, asiaticoside) on the INCI list — those are the actual ingredients.

How long does centella take to work?

Calming and redness reduction are noticeable within 24–48 hours. Visible barrier recovery takes 2–4 weeks of daily use. Collagen-related benefits (fine line softening, post-acne mark fading) take 8–12 weeks. If you see no calming effect within a week, the formula is probably under-dosed and a higher-concentration product is worth trying.

Is centella safe during pregnancy?

Topical centella at cosmetic concentrations is considered safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding. The molecules are too large to meaningfully cross the skin into the bloodstream. Avoid oral centella supplements during pregnancy without medical advice — those have different absorption and a less established safety profile.

Can centella replace my moisturiser?

Generally no. Centella products are usually water-light essences or serums focused on active delivery, not occlusive barrier sealing. Most skin needs both: centella for the active calming and repair, plus a moisturiser to lock in the benefit. Some richer "cica balm" formulations bridge both, but the lighter essences should be layered under a moisturiser.

Centella vs niacinamide — which should I pick?

Different jobs. Centella is the better calming/anti-inflammatory active and is more useful when your skin is actively irritated or recovering. Niacinamide is the better daily-use ingredient for pore appearance, tone evenness, and oil balance. Many people use both — niacinamide AM, centella PM, or layer them in the same routine.

Why does my cica cream not seem to do much?

Three common reasons: (1) The product uses Centella Asiatica Leaf Water as a base rather than a standardised extract — minimal active content. (2) The product is positioned as "cica" but the centella is buried deep in the INCI list. (3) Your skin needs a higher concentration or single-molecule formulation like madecassoside. Try a product with an explicit percentage on the label (e.g. SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule lists its centella content).

Is centella good for acne?

Centella does not kill acne bacteria or unclog pores — so it does not treat active acne directly. What it does well is reduce the redness and inflammation around active spots and accelerate fading of post-inflammatory erythema (the lingering red marks after a spot heals). Pair it with a targeted active like adapalene or salicylic acid for the underlying acne, and use centella to support recovery.

Sources

Last reviewed 2026-05-17. We update this page when new peer-reviewed research changes our recommendations.

[1]Centella asiatica in skin health and cosmeceuticals: mechanisms, clinical evidence, and advanced delivery systems (Pharmacia 2025)peer reviewed
[2]Topical Application of Centella asiatica in Wound Healing: Recent Insights (Pharmaceutics 2024)peer reviewed
[3]Pharmacological Effects of Centella asiatica on Skin Diseases (PMC review)review article
[4]Actions and Therapeutic Potential of Madecassoside (MDPI Applied Sciences 2021)review article
[5]Therapeutic properties of asiaticoside and madecassoside (PMC 2023)peer reviewed
[6]A Systematic Review of the Effect of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing (PMC)review article

Centella Asiatica in Korean skincare

30-second summary

The science

What is centella asiatica, exactly?

How it works — the four active compounds

What the studies actually show

In Korean skincare specifically

Why centella became the K-beauty calming ingredient

The four cica brands worth knowing in the UK

Who it's good for

Who should avoid

Layering guide

Snail mucin

Niacinamide

Retinol / retinoids

Vitamin C

AHA / BHA

Benzoyl peroxide

Peptides

Heartleaf (Houttuynia)

K-beauty products with centella asiatica

Madagascar Centella Ampoule

Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+

Cicapair Tiger Grass Cream

Wonder Releaf Centella Unscented Serum

Madagascar Centella Soothing Cream

Madagascar Centella Toning Toner

Centella Ampoule Foam Cleanser

Madagascar Centella Ampoule Foam

SoonJung 10-Free Moist Emulsion

Cicapair Tiger Grass Serum

Tea Tree Care Solution Mask

Wonder Releaf Centella Daily Sun Lotion SPF50+

Not sure if centella asiatica is right for your skin?

Frequently asked

Related ingredients

Snail Mucin →

Niacinamide →

PDRN →

Sources