Centella (Cica) in Korean Skincare: What the Trials Show

Centella asiatica ('cica') has small human trials behind it: better hydration [3], a modest softening of fine lines around the eyes and mouth [1], and slightly better-looking scars [2]. The bigger claims — 'repairs the barrier', 'cures redness', 'boosts collagen' — come from lab and animal work rather than people.

Centella is a creeping herb, used for centuries in Asian medicine. Its active compounds are madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. On labels look for Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water or any of those four compounds by name. Products that list a single purified compound (madecassoside) are usually more consistent than a plain extract.

Fine lines. A systematic review pooled five double-blind trials with 172 Asian women and found centella reduced wrinkles around the eyes and lips and raised skin hydration — though probably less than prescription tretinoin, and the trials were poorly reported and used different extracts [1].

Hydration. In a four-week study with 25 volunteers, a cream with 5% centella extract raised skin hydration by about a quarter and cut water loss through the skin by 18%, against 5% for the same cream without the extract. Nobody reacted in patch tests [3].

Scars. In a 12-week placebo-controlled trial with 30 people, a centella cream improved the colour and overall score of skin-graft scars [2]. It was small and short.

Combinations. A six-month trial of a cream combining vitamin C with 0.1% madecassoside improved wrinkles, firmness and hydration, but because the cream had two actives — and the authors included the manufacturer's staff — it cannot be credited to madecassoside alone [4].

Centella is generally well tolerated and a sensible choice for dry, sensitive or recovering skin. It is not allergy-free: a 2024 report described allergic contact dermatitis to centella in two people, so patch-test if you react to plant extracts. For persistent redness or rosacea, see our azelaic acid guide at kbeautymatch.co.uk/blog/azelaic-acid-skincare-evidence — the evidence there is much stronger.

The products below contain centella or its compounds and are compared daily across UK retailers, delivery included.